It may be too late too figure out the hardest part, yet, it is a good time to explain the hardest part of the Rhino Glove. Because, after a long process of loving and hating programming Arduino sketch for this project, I understand writing a proper code to handle 6 inputs as data and retrieve information out of them is a frustrating part of such a project. In my project, three bend sensors, with three different range of output has been used to help program figures out what accelerometer outputs mean. For example, bending index finger, as a result bending sensor related to index finger, should be interpreted as a trigger for extruding object. In addition, bending middle finger sensor should trigger the rotation control. However, when user moves one finger other fingers move as well, and bend sensors send data to Arduino, writing proper code to find user desired action out of three different bend sensor outputs is a very hard job to be done. Same, when user moves his hand in an arbitrary direction, Arduino can read three different values of acceleration, each for one axis, figuring out the exact movement of hand using these three stream of data is a difficult task. In fact, I found it hardest part to build. Unfortunately, I faced this problem in last phase of my project, which was demonstration. I have not yet found out a way to overcome this problem. In future, I will focus on solving this problem more dedicated.
For long distant couples who suffer imbalanced conversation due to separation, soft drink · for two is a conversation display that encourages human-human interaction, unlike previous sound visualizers, which focus on individual pattern and human-computer interaction. Soft drink · for two engages couples to build a rich conversation together.
download detailed documentation: Soft drink for two_final report
The HexaCrawler Hexabot is a six legged robot that is controlled via a Wii NunChuck. The purpose of my project was to experiment and have fun with robotics. As someone who has never done anything related to robotics, circuitry or machines (past what this class has taught me), I really wanted to find a fun way to learn first hand how these types of things work. With that in mind, the purpose of this project is so that others that are in a similar situation as myself can go through the same educational experience and come out with a fun toy in the end. HexaCrawler is easily reprogrammable and comes with basic, easy to understand functions so that users may customize and add to the robot.
Final Report: HexaCrawler – Final Report
Laser Cut Template:
A Moving Chair!
Many objects in our everyday environment are inanimate, leaving little room for creative interactions and social growth. A major contributor to this lifeless world is furniture: it is present in virtually every home and building, yet provides no more than a place to relax. The objective of this project is to produce interactive furniture, seeing the potential to increase human cognition. With furniture which now has personality, people will no longer take them for granted. Users will have to consider the emotions of the furniture, rather than assuming it is specifically for their use. Besides having fun, this project would benefit people in that users will become more courteous towards others and increase awareness of their environment.
Here’s an assignment that I never got around to documenting.
Check it out: (very straight forward)
The bell crank did not work out so well, as it was very stiff. Next time, I would change the angle and choose a stronger material.
How to make it:
1. Laser cut on white cardboard silhouettes of a person sitting, a dog and a person standing.
2. Create the chair by making a wide but skinny rectangular box, and a cut-rectangle for the seat.
3. Create another box, same thickness and width, only shorter. Glue it to the seat, near the floor. This is part of the lever.
4. To create the fulcrum, I basically followed the photo from flying pig. Cut out two shapes with a whole punched hole, tube -in this case 3 wires squished together.
5. Next, make another small box and glue the two shapes on its sides. Put the wires through the holes and blue the middle of the wires to the second box you built. There’s your lever.
6. Glue the dog’s front feet to the edge of the lever. Since feet were small and fragile, I stuck them into a piece of cardboard (normal card-b) then glued that cardboard to the lever.
7. To create the bell crank, cut out the shapes shown in the video. Make sure you have two of each shape, because one piece of cardboard is not strong enough.
8. Put the straw through the wholes of your shape. Attach string from the legs to the straw for better tilting abilities.
9. Finally, give the sitter a fat surface by gluing a (random) shape to its butt. This way, it can actually sit.
10. Done! Enjoy your personal annoying dog.
Have you ever played found yourself in a long, boring game of Beer Pong wishing there was a little more excitement in the game? I know I have so I decided to try and make pong games a little more exciting in our house by making this interactive beer pong table! The general idea behind the table is to make the table respond to the state of the game, and change as the game progresses. In the example I have made here a series of tri-color LED’s in the middle of the table change colors as cups are removed. (if you don’t know how to play pong, please check this out first! ) The table’s main parts are force sensitive resistors (to sense the cups), an arduino microcontroller, and lots of tri-color LEDs.
The hardest part of my final project turned out to be a crazy amount of LED wiring for the interactive element of my Interactive Beer Pong Table. Figuring out how to wire 18 tri color RGB LEDs together was not a problem, and made putting it together sound and look very easy. However, this was not the case especially considering it was my first time soldering ever. First tip I learned of soldering…get a good iron. Second tip, set aside a lot of time, patience, and probably a beer or two to deal with the frustration of the tedious task. Once all the LED’s were finally soldered together adding the right transistor was a bit of an issue as I first tried a MOSFET instead of the simple TIP 120 I ended up using. The MOSFET would have worked however I got a 10V one instead of the required 5V (thank you radio shack).
Anywho, it worked out as you can see below (and above in the final project post). And now i cant WAIT to solder like crazy sometime soon, quite possibly for MayurSASA’s 2010 Booth.